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A step into the unknown…A Guide to Belfast, Northern Ireland
Belfast was for many years a no-go, especially for the English, it appeared harsh, rough, dangerous and a law unto itself. But in the years that have followed the signing of the Good Friday agreement Belfast has grown into a city which can express its differences peacefully, can celebrate its Titanic history and offers a unique glimpse into its culture of contrasts through its dry sense of humour and gritty realism…
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Impressions and expectations of visiting Belfast and Northern Ireland:
After experiencing the charm and warmth of Dublin and the Republic of Ireland we were keen to see what Belfast and the North would offer. In many ways, my expectations of Belfast have been clouded by the media and culture I grew up in. It was never somewhere we could have ever imagined visiting when we were kids given the tension. We even know many who served over there during The Troubles and their stories are harrowing, to say the least.
My grandad still had his reservations about our trip and warned us to be especially careful, in the end, I can happily say those worries were misplaced. But the fact remains that as much as Belfast has been regenerated since the official end of The Troubles its reputation remains, especially in the UK. But we are not ones to be put off by these things, our visit to Ukraine last year is a testament to our willingness to see what a place is really like!
However, apart from sporadic violence, Belfast’s streets have long since ceased to be a war zone. The tension and differences between the Republican and Loyalist populations will likely never end. But it has now become a characteristic of the city rather than an all-out war. Scars remain and hearts continue to be loyal but the fact that the infamous “Peace Lines” are now scheduled to come down shows how much progress has been made.
I have to say though that upon entering Belfast I wasn’t really sure what we would be greeted with. I expected it to be harsher and grittier than Dublin and it most definitely was, even the Northern Irish accent has a tone to it that initially appears more fierce than the jovial-sounding Dubliners! However this isn’t a bad thing, this is Belfast, it was built on the hardiness of its ship workers and the determination of its protesters.
Belfast had an honesty to it which the sometimes overrun Dublin is missing (however we do very much love it there). There is a genuine warmth behind the gravelly tones of the Ulster accent and a sharp sense of humour given all this city has been through. Tourists are thinner on the ground here and real life comes much more into focus. Ask a local for some directions or advice and they will leap at the chance to tell you all about their hearty city.
One thing I wasn’t expecting was for it to feel like a totally different country from Ireland. OK, I knew they were and sure, Dublin at times did feel a little different to home but not totally foreign. But Belfast really did feel a million miles away from Dublin and made the republic feel very European in comparison. Maybe part of it is the familiar things from home such as street signs, but I never expected that upon the same small island there to be such a contrast…but that’s what is fascinating about these two countries.
Some history and background:
So having only been in Vienna a couple of weeks before, the culture and atmosphere could not be much further apart, but that is what makes Europe such a great place to explore! Belfast has a beauty to it of a different nature to that of the traditional notions of places like Vienna. Belfast has true heart, it has no façade or trickery, it is what is it and it’s damn proud of that!
In the 19th Century Belfast was one of the most important industrial cities in the world leading the way in shipbuilding due to the likes of Harland and Wolff. In May 1911 the RMS Titanic was launched from its docks, the largest ship of its time it became world famous as it sank on her maiden voyage.
Following the Irish War of Independence between 1919-21 the Northern Irish State is created and remained under British rule with Belfast as its capital. In 1968 the Nationalists begin to protest the rule of Stormont as biased toward the Unionists and the British army moved in, thus beginning the period known as “The Troubles”
The Troubles officially lasted from 1968 until the signing of the Good Friday agreement in 1998 (30 years), but violence did continue until the early 2000s.
Our Favourite Backpacks
Osprey Fairpoint/ Fairview
We’ve used the Osprey Fairpoint/ Fairview for all our backpacking adventures over the past 5 years and highly recommend them!
The main area of the pack opens like a suitcase, which is great for using packing cubes to keep everything organised and they even come with a detachable day pack!
Some of the key events during the troubles include the December 4th UVF bombings of 1971 which killed 15 people including 2 children. Then comes the infamous “Bloody Sunday” where 14 unarmed civilians are shot dead during a Civil Rights march in Derry by the British Army. In July 1972 was “Bloody Friday” where 9 people died in Belfast due to 21 IRA bombs detonating across the city.
Another major event was the death of Bobby Sands alongside 9 other IRA prisoners in 1981 who had their political prisoner status removed and so were allowed to die during their Hunger Strike. In 1988 3 IRA members were killed in Gibraltar and loyalist Michael Stone killed 3 mourners at their funerals during a gun and grenade attack. Two British army corporals are ambushed by a mob and shot by the IRA at their subsequent funerals.
The Good Friday agreement is signed in 1998 to give a power-sharing agreement to the Northern Irish parliament and removal of British troops from the country. However, in August of that year, 29 people are killed by a bomb in Omagh by IRA dissidents
Things to do in Belfast:
Titanic Museum and Quarter
The Titanic museum was opened only a few years ago in 2012 on the 100th anniversary of the sinking of this famous liner. The whole area down by the docks has been renamed the “Titanic Quarter” and there are big plans for the regeneration of this area and the museum is at the heart of that.
The area around here has a really energetic feel, on a gloriously sunny day sitting on the newly built decking by the harbour is simply wonderful. It feels very much like an area in transition but at the same time still retains its authenticity and industrial character.
The museum is an impressive building which juts into the skyline like the bow of the gigantic ship herself. We had a great time exploring the rides, interactive displays and exhibitions within the centre but it did feel a little on the expensive side and we were disappointed by the lack of relics from the ship in display.
Where:
Over on the docks which are about 1.3 miles from city hall, take buses 26, 26b or 26c.
Hours:
January – March 10am – 5pm DailyApril – May 9am – 6pm DailyJune, July, August 9am – 7pm DailySeptember 9am – 6pm DailyOctober – December 10am – 5pm Daily
Cost:
Adult: £15.50Child (5-16): £7.25Student: £11.00
Titanic Dry Dock and Pump House
We have added this on its own because we loved it so much as it can also be visited on a combination ticket with the Museum or on its own. If you only have time for one we would say get yourselves down here and check out the most authentic piece of Titanic history in Belfast.
At the time this was the largest dry dock in the world and hosted what would become the most famous ship to ever be built. This is the place in which Titanic last stood before setting off on her fateful last journey, the size of not only the dock itself but of the history is quite overwhelming!
The sheer work and technology that went into making this dock at the time was state of the art and the pump house had the capacity to move vast volumes of water in and out of the huge cavern in record times. The scale of the dock and pump house equipment is a testament to the power of Victorian/ Edwardian engineering and the workforce of Belfast.
Some historical photos from when Titanic was docked here really give you an understanding of her sheer size of her! Even standing in the huge dock it’s almost incomprehensible how big the ship was especially given how long ago this feat was achieved.
Where:
Continue further on from the Titanic Museum following the signs.
Hours:
Mon to Thurs: 10:00am – 5:00pm
Fri: 9:30am – 5:00pm
Sat and Sun: 10:00am – 5:00pm
Price:
Adult – £5.00
Belfast City Hall
Completed in 1906 this Baroque Revival building sits in the heart of Belfast and is one of the city’s most important and impressive buildings. The area around the Hall has been the heart of Belfast long before it was constructed having housed the White Linen Hall.
City Hall was commissioned when Belfast was granted city status by Queen Victoria in 1888 and so marks a pivotal moment in the history of the city. The grounds of City Hall serve as a meeting point for many of the residents and workers of Belfast and feel very much like the central hub of the city with its large screen and communal feel.
In 2012 it was the centre of some controversy when the City Council voted to limit the flying of the Union flag to 18 designated days. The flag had previously been flown every day since 1906 and this change upset many of the Loyalists in the city. On the evening of the vote, a group of both protesters tried to storm the hall and other groups around the country became violent.
Where:
Donegall Square
Cost:
FREE
Free public tours of City Hall at the following times:
Monday to Friday – 11am, 2pm and 3pm
Saturday – 2pm and 3pm.
Book a Tour
Best Place to Book Tour
As much as we love independent travelling, sometimes the best way to access certain places, experience local culture and get real authentic information is on a tour.
For the best trips, tours and guides we always use Get Your Guide.
Albert Memorial clock
Completed in 1869 as a memorial to Prince Albert the clock is one of Belfast’s most well-known features. A mixture of French and Italian Gothic styles the tower stands at 113 ft tall in Queen’s square.
The tower is Belfast’s answer to the leaning tower of Pisa as passing traffic over the years and its original shallow wooden foundations have caused the tower to slant 4ft to one side. Recent renovations costing millions of pounds have put a halt to the tower’s decay as well as major cleaning works and replacement of carvings.
The tower is over towards the docks although well within walking distance of City Hall and is a quite magnificent sight. At one point it was known as an area to pick up prostitutes due to its location, but today the area is a modern public space with a nice relaxed atmosphere.
Samson and Goliath
It’s not too often that a pair of cranes are on a highlights list from a city but Belfast is a little different from most cities! This pair of gigantic constructions is a proud landmark of Belfast and its ship building heritage. Built in 1969 and 1974 they dominate the city’s skyline they are a central part of the regeneration plans of the Titanic Quarter even after they retire.
These Harland and Wolff cranes have long since seen their glory days but they are still very much part of the remaining working docks of present-day Belfast. As such, there is only so close that you can get but standing underneath the 315 ft and 348 ft tall cranes you really get a sense of their enormity! It would be awesome one day when they are no longer in service if visitors could ascend to the top!
Murals and Peace wall
The murals and peace wall are an important and unique feature of Belfast, there are so many of them and with such fascinating and sometimes horrific stories behind them that we are planning on doing a separate longer post too. But a guide to Belfast would be lacking if they were not included!
The murals are spread around the city and it would take forever to search them all out, but the main and most important are situated on the Falls Road, Shankill Road and Newtownards Road. The murals actually cover a wide breadth of topics including sports, Titanic and the general legacy of the city. However, they are most well-known for their political themes and that was what we really wanted to see.
Once you venture into these areas of the city, which are inner city suburbs you get to the real heartland of The Troubles and the different “sides” of this city really make themselves known. The centre feels mostly quite neutral but once you step onto The Falls Road there’s no mistaking the fact that you are on Republican turf. Road signs turn to Irish and the tricolour is flying high from almost every house. Murals such as the memorial to Bobby Sands are of particular significance and evidence of the atrocities committed on these streets is plain for all to see.
The murals themselves however are very much respected among each group and are a way, not only to differentiate which area of the city you are in, but to display an identity each community has in a way which doesn’t involve violence (despite the often depicted AK47!). To see children walking past paintings of men wearing balaclavas and holding up rifles is a strange thing, I guess the idea is to instil within each generation their identity but also to never forget what happened.
Where:
Mostly in the areas just outside of the city centre such as Falls Road, Shankill and Newtownards Road but they cover a vast area. This page has a map of all the major ones www.belfast-murals.co.uk
How:
We decided to take several buses and walk a hell of a long way to see all these murals and we ended up with major blisters! The best way to see them and hear about the history behind them is to take a “Black cab tour” with a local.
Victoria Square Shopping Centre
This might seem like a dud putting a shopping centre on a list of things to see because usually, we steer clear of the places. But, this one in Belfast is pretty cool so it had to be included! Firstly it’s a bit of a strange configuration because it’s actually open at both ends which in a city with weather like Belfast seems a bit of an odd decision but it does make it feel quite different!
Now, forget the shops and all that rubbish, the thing to go and see here is the dome! It’s open to the public for free via a lift or spiral staircase and offers panoramic views over the city! At night it can it is lit up blue and the skyline becomes a trippy, twinkling delight! It’s a great place to head up to and chill out as well as scope out where to venture next! Often earlier on in the day, a guide will be up here too
Victoria Square
When:
Mon, Tues, Sat – 9:30am – 6:00pmWeds, Thurs, Fri – 9:30am – 9:00pmSun – 1:00pm – 6:00pm
Cathedral Quarter
The cathedral quarter is the bohemian, alternative and up and up-and-coming area of the city which has an edgy and youthful vibe to it. Most buildings are covered in amazing graffiti and it is here you will find the city’s thriving art scene alongside the gay village. The buildings are a little dilapidated and rough around the edges but it is here you will find those trendy off-the-wall bars, vegan restaurants, tiny galleries, print workshops and meditation centres!!
The area is continuing to be developed, somewhat controversially, but still retains that character many of these alternative quarters in city’s around the world have lost to commercialisation. This outdoor art gallery and cultural hub is great to explore and alongside the Murals just shows how creative and artistic Belfast is!
Where:
Roughly situated between Royal Avenue near where the Belfast Central Library building is, and the Dunbar Link in the city centre. From one of its corners, the junction of Royal Avenue, Donegall Street and York Street, the Cathedral Quarter lies south and east.
Stormont Parliament building
The Stormont Parliament building might be a little out of the way to reach but being one of the most politically, socially and culturally significant buildings to the people and history of Northern Ireland, not to mention it’s beauty, it is worth hopping on the bus for!
Opened by King Edward VIII on 16th November 1932 it signalled a massive change in the way that Northern Ireland was ruled over and became the first permanent place for the newly formed parliament to be held. The vast estate that the building stands in provides an impressive view leading up the steep road towards the entrance.
Visiting is free and they do offer tours twice a day. We turned up late on in the day but some of the guards still took us around all the public areas which was wonderful, their enthusiasm and knowledge made the bus trip worth it! To get in however you have to go through airport-style security and be given a visitors badge, police presence is also quite high!
The inside of the building is quite ornate and grand but yet also a lot smaller than expected. The two main halls in which the party leaders sit and debate are open to visit and feel quite intimate. One of the unique elements of the NI parliament is the power-sharing assembly which is reflected by the horseshoe-shaped connected benches.
Where:
The estate is around about 5 miles from the city centre, takebus 20a or 23 which takes around 20 minutes
Times:
9:00 am – 4:00pm Mon to Fri, Public can also view whilst parliament is in session when their is room in the gallery.
Free twice daily tours, Monday to Friday at 11.00am and 2.00pm
Crown Pub
The Crown Liquor Saloon is one of Belfast and NI’s most well-known and legendary public houses as well as being a landmark for the city. The building itself is grade A listed and is protected by the national trust and had received major restoration over the years.
The crown is one of the best remaining examples of a Victoria Gin Palace and is one of the most lavish and intricately detailed and decorated pubs you will likely come across! The pub dates from around about 1826 and is still open for business and merriment today!
The tiled exterior continues inside where almost every surface is decorated and the floor features a huge crown mosaic. One of the best features of the pub is its cosy atmosphere through its period lighting and private snugs!
Where:
46 Great Victoria Street
Titanic Studios:
Unfortunately, you can’t just go in a visit the studios where they film Game Of Thrones which is pretty disappointing. I am sure they would make a lot of money from offering tours and it’s right in the heart of the Titanic quarter so a great location for visitors. But anyway here is it, inside there is the iron throne!
Further afield:
One of the big reasons we wanted to go up to Belfast if we are honest is to see something that isn’t even in the city!! The Giant’s Causeway is somewhere that has been on our bucket list for a long time and this was the main reason to extend the trip over to Ireland as last time we hadn’t had the time to head up north. We wanted to take in a country we had near been to before but also tick this off.
However, since the Causeway entered our list we had become massive Game of Thrones fans and I am sure many of you are too! Quite a lot of the show is filmed in the rugged and beautiful scenery of rural Northern Ireland and this was yet another opportunity to see some of those breathtaking locations.
The only problem was that the tours only ran on certain days whilst we were in Belfast meaning we only had one day to do a tour (again as you know we hate tours but unless you have transport or lots of time a tour really is the only way to see the Causeway and these locations!). Which would be chosen, it was heartbreaking!!
In the end we came across the “Stones and Thrones tour” and it ticked all the boxes, we got to see some amazing places that day and it really lived up to our imaginations. We did the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge, we saw Winterfell and the cushendun caves, we had a wonderful lunch in a quaint fishing village and of course made a dream come true seeing the Giant’s Causeway… post coming soon but here a couple of photos for you!
Have you ever been to or considered visiting Belfast, what did you make of it and what did you expect? In memory of our good friend Michael Lunney who passed away this week. He visited Belfast to see his family as often as he could and was really proud of his Irish roots. R.I.P mate.
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